  :root {
    --paper: #F7F6F1;
    --ink: #24292C;
    --ink-soft: #4A5156;
    --mist: #8A9199;
    --pine: #38634A;
    --pine-soft: #4A7A5D;
    --shu: #B33A26;
    --line: #DDDBD2;
    --card: #FFFFFF;
    --shadow: rgba(36, 41, 44, 0.06);
  }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    :root {
      --paper: #171D1A;
      --ink: #E9E6DD;
      --ink-soft: #B8B5AC;
      --mist: #7C847E;
      --pine: #8CBD9E;
      --pine-soft: #A3CDB2;
      --shu: #D96A50;
      --line: #2C342E;
      --card: #1E2521;
      --shadow: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.25);
    }
  }

  * { box-sizing: border-box; }

  body {
    background: var(--paper);
    color: var(--ink);
    font-family: "Segoe UI", "Helvetica Neue", Arial, "Yu Gothic", "Hiragino Kaku Gothic ProN", sans-serif;
    line-height: 1.65;
    font-size: 1.05rem;
    margin: 0;
    -webkit-font-smoothing: antialiased;
  }

  .display, h1, h2 {
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, "Yu Mincho", serif;
    font-weight: 400;
    text-wrap: balance;
    margin: 0;
  }

  .kanji {
    font-family: "Yu Mincho", "Hiragino Mincho ProN", "MS Mincho", serif;
  }

  .page {
    max-width: 46rem;
    margin: 0 auto;
    padding: 0 1.5rem 6rem;
  }

  /* ---- Hero ---- */
  .hero {
    padding: 5.5rem 0 4rem;
  }
  .eyebrow {
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.75rem;
    font-size: 0.85rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.22em;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    color: var(--pine);
    margin-bottom: 1.75rem;
  }
  .eyebrow .kanji {
    font-size: 1.1rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.35em;
  }
  .eyebrow::after {
    content: "";
    flex: 1;
    height: 1px;
    background: var(--line);
  }
  h1 {
    font-size: clamp(2.4rem, 7vw, 3.6rem);
    line-height: 1.12;
    letter-spacing: -0.01em;
  }
  .hero p.lede {
    font-size: 1.2rem;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
    max-width: 36rem;
    margin: 1.5rem 0 2.25rem;
  }
  .hero p.lede strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  /* Google rating. Hand-set numbers — update them when the profile moves. */
  .rating {
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.6rem;
    flex-wrap: wrap;
    margin: 0 0 1.9rem;
    font-size: 0.95rem;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
  }
  .rating-stars {
    color: #C8860D;
    font-size: 1.05rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.08em;
  }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    .rating-stars { color: #E0A83C; }
  }
  .rating strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  .cta-row {
    display: flex;
    flex-wrap: wrap;
    gap: 0.85rem;
    align-items: center;
  }
  .btn-ig {
    display: inline-flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.6rem;
    background: var(--pine);
    color: #FBF9F4;
    text-decoration: none;
    padding: 0.85rem 1.6rem;
    border-radius: 3px;
    font-size: 1rem;
    font-weight: 600;
    letter-spacing: 0.02em;
    transition: background 150ms ease;
  }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    .btn-ig { color: #14201A; }
  }
  .btn-ig:hover { background: var(--pine-soft); }
  .btn-ig:focus-visible {
    outline: 2px solid var(--shu);
    outline-offset: 3px;
  }
  .btn-ig svg { flex: none; }
  .cta-note {
    font-size: 0.9rem;
    color: var(--mist);
    margin-top: 0.9rem;
  }

  /* ---- Route line sections ---- */
  .route {
    position: relative;
    padding-left: 2.25rem;
  }
  .route::before {
    content: "";
    position: absolute;
    left: 6px;
    top: 0.6rem;
    bottom: 0.6rem;
    width: 2px;
    background: var(--pine);
    opacity: 0.55;
  }
  .stop {
    position: relative;
    padding: 2.5rem 0;
  }
  .stop + .stop {
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .stop::before {
    content: "";
    position: absolute;
    left: -2.25rem;
    top: 3.05rem;
    width: 14px;
    height: 14px;
    border-radius: 50%;
    background: var(--paper);
    border: 2.5px solid var(--pine);
  }
  .stop-label {
    font-size: 0.76rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.24em;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    color: var(--mist);
    margin-bottom: 0.5rem;
  }
  h2 {
    font-size: 1.75rem;
    line-height: 1.25;
    margin-bottom: 0.85rem;
  }
  .stop p { margin: 0 0 1rem; color: var(--ink-soft); max-width: 38rem; }
  .stop p:last-child { margin-bottom: 0; }
  .stop p strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  /* ---- Walk cards ---- */
  .walks {
    display: grid;
    gap: 1rem;
    margin-top: 1.5rem;
  }
  .walk {
    background: var(--card);
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 4px;
    padding: 1.4rem 1.5rem;
    box-shadow: 0 1px 3px var(--shadow);
  }
  .walk h3 {
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, "Yu Mincho", serif;
    font-weight: 600;
    font-size: 1.2rem;
    margin: 0 0 0.4rem;
  }
  .walk h3 .kanji {
    font-weight: 400;
    color: var(--pine);
    font-size: 1rem;
    margin-left: 0.6rem;
  }
  .walk p {
    margin: 0;
    font-size: 1rem;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
  }

  /* ---- Numbered itinerary ---- */
  .itin {
    list-style: none;
    counter-reset: leg;
    padding: 0;
    margin: 1.5rem 0 0;
    display: grid;
    gap: 0.6rem;
    max-width: 38rem;
  }
  .itin li {
    counter-increment: leg;
    display: flex;
    gap: 0.85rem;
    align-items: baseline;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
    font-size: 1rem;
  }
  .itin li::before {
    content: counter(leg, decimal-leading-zero);
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, serif;
    color: var(--pine);
    font-size: 0.85rem;
    flex: none;
    min-width: 1.6rem;
    font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums;
  }

  /* ---- Practical / caveat lists ---- */
  .facts {
    list-style: none;
    padding: 0;
    margin: 1.25rem 0 0;
    display: grid;
    gap: 0.65rem;
    max-width: 38rem;
  }
  .facts li {
    display: flex;
    gap: 0.85rem;
    align-items: baseline;
    font-size: 1rem;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
  }
  .facts li::before {
    content: "—";
    color: var(--pine);
    flex: none;
  }
  .facts strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }

  /* ---- Fun facts strip ---- */
  .trivia {
    display: grid;
    grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(10rem, 1fr));
    gap: 1rem;
    margin-top: 1.5rem;
  }
  .fact-card {
    background: var(--card);
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 4px;
    padding: 1.1rem 1.2rem;
    box-shadow: 0 1px 3px var(--shadow);
  }
  .fact-card .fact-label {
    font-size: 0.72rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.2em;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    color: var(--pine);
    margin-bottom: 0.35rem;
  }
  .fact-card .fact-value {
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, serif;
    font-size: 1.1rem;
    color: var(--ink);
  }

  /* ---- Footer ---- */
  footer {
    margin-top: 3.5rem;
    padding-top: 2rem;
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
    display: flex;
    flex-wrap: wrap;
    gap: 1rem;
    align-items: center;
    justify-content: space-between;
    font-size: 0.9rem;
    color: var(--mist);
  }
  footer a {
    color: var(--pine);
    text-decoration: none;
    font-weight: 600;
  }
  footer a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
  footer a:focus-visible {
    outline: 2px solid var(--shu);
    outline-offset: 3px;
  }
  .footer-gag {
    font-style: italic;
  }

  /* ---- Torii mark ---- */
  .torii {
    display: block;
    margin: 0 0 1.5rem;
    color: var(--shu);
  }

  @media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) {
    .hero > * {
      animation: rise 550ms ease both;
    }
    .hero > *:nth-child(2) { animation-delay: 70ms; }
    .hero > *:nth-child(3) { animation-delay: 140ms; }
    .hero > *:nth-child(4) { animation-delay: 210ms; }
    .hero > *:nth-child(5) { animation-delay: 280ms; }
    @keyframes rise {
      from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(10px); }
      to   { opacity: 1; transform: none; }
    }
  }

  @media (max-width: 480px) {
    .route { padding-left: 1.6rem; }
    .stop::before { left: -1.6rem; }
  }

  /* Persistent contact bar. This page exists to start a conversation, so the
     way to start one should never scroll out of reach. */
  .contact-bar {
    position: fixed;
    left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0;
    z-index: 50;
    display: flex;
    justify-content: center;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.85rem;
    padding: 0.7rem 1rem calc(0.7rem + env(safe-area-inset-bottom, 0px));
    background: var(--card);
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
    box-shadow: 0 -2px 16px var(--shadow);
  }
  .contact-bar .cb-label {
    font-size: 0.8rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.08em;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    font-weight: 600;
    color: var(--mist);
    margin-right: 0.15rem;
  }
  /* On a narrow phone the icons matter more than the word. */
  @media (max-width: 400px) {
    .contact-bar .cb-label { display: none; }
  }
  .btn-contact {
    display: inline-flex;
    align-items: center;
    justify-content: center;
    width: 46px;
    height: 46px;
    flex: none;
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 3px;
    color: var(--pine);
    background: transparent;
    text-decoration: none;
    transition: background 150ms ease, color 150ms ease, border-color 150ms ease;
  }
  .btn-contact:hover,
  .btn-contact:focus-visible {
    background: var(--pine);
    color: var(--paper);
    border-color: var(--pine);
  }
  .btn-contact:focus-visible {
    outline: 2px solid var(--shu);
    outline-offset: 3px;
  }
  .btn-contact svg { width: 22px; height: 22px; flex: none; }
  /* Keep the footer clear of the fixed bar rather than letting it hide behind. */
  body { padding-bottom: 5.75rem; }
  @media print { .contact-bar { display: none; } body { padding-bottom: 0; } }

  /* Booking buttons. Same weight for all three: the page should not imply one
     channel is the real one and the others are afterthoughts. */
  .btn-book {
    display: inline-flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.55rem;
    background: var(--pine);
    color: #FBF9F4;
    text-decoration: none;
    padding: 0.85rem 1.4rem;
    border-radius: 3px;
    font-size: 1rem;
    font-weight: 600;
    letter-spacing: 0.02em;
    transition: background 150ms ease;
  }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    .btn-book { color: #14201A; }
  }
  .btn-book:hover { background: var(--pine-soft); }
  .btn-book:focus-visible {
    outline: 2px solid var(--shu);
    outline-offset: 3px;
  }
  .btn-book svg { flex: none; width: 18px; height: 18px; }

  /* Currency estimator. Quiet by default - the US dollar figure above is the
     price; this only saves the reader opening another tab. */
  .fx { margin-top: 0.7rem; }
  .fx:empty { display: none; }
  .fx-label {
    display: block;
    font-size: 0.72rem;
    letter-spacing: 0.06em;
    text-transform: uppercase;
    color: var(--mist);
    margin-bottom: 0.35rem;
  }
  .fx-flags { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 0.3rem; align-items: center; }
  .fx-btn {
    min-width: 38px;
    padding: 0.3rem 0.5rem;
    background: transparent;
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 3px;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
    font: inherit;
    font-size: 0.85rem;
    font-weight: 600;
    cursor: pointer;
    transition: border-color 120ms ease, background 120ms ease, color 120ms ease;
  }
  .fx-btn:hover { border-color: var(--pine); color: var(--pine); }
  .fx-btn[aria-pressed="true"] {
    border-color: var(--pine);
    background: var(--pine);
    color: var(--paper);
  }
  .fx-btn:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--shu); outline-offset: 2px; }
  .fx-out {
    margin-left: 0.45rem;
    font-size: 0.95rem;
    font-weight: 600;
    color: var(--ink);
    font-variant-numeric: tabular-nums;
  }
  .fx-out:empty { display: none; }
  .fx-out .fx-approx { font-weight: 400; color: var(--mist); }
  .fx-star {
    color: var(--shu);
    text-decoration: none;
    font-weight: 700;
    margin-left: 0.15rem;
    vertical-align: super;
    font-size: 0.75em;
  }
  .fx-star:hover, .fx-star:focus-visible { text-decoration: underline; }
  @media print { .fx { display: none; } }

  /* ==== 2026-10-07 rework: menu, tour grid, photos ==== */

  /* Top bar. A menu, not a scroll: every page is one tap from every other. */
  .topbar {
    position: sticky;
    top: 0;
    z-index: 60;
    background: var(--paper);
    border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .topbar-inner {
    max-width: 64rem;
    margin: 0 auto;
    padding: 0.7rem 1.5rem;
    display: flex;
    align-items: center;
    justify-content: space-between;
    gap: 1rem;
  }
  .brand {
    display: inline-flex;
    align-items: center;
    gap: 0.55rem;
    color: var(--ink);
    text-decoration: none;
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, serif;
    font-size: 1.15rem;
    white-space: nowrap;
  }
  .brand svg { color: var(--shu); flex: none; }
  .menu {
    display: flex;
    gap: 0.25rem;
    list-style: none;
    margin: 0;
    padding: 0;
  }
  .menu a {
    display: block;
    padding: 0.45rem 0.8rem;
    border-radius: 3px;
    color: var(--ink-soft);
    text-decoration: none;
    font-size: 0.95rem;
    font-weight: 600;
  }
  .menu a:hover { color: var(--pine); background: var(--card); }
  .menu a[aria-current="page"] { color: var(--pine); box-shadow: inset 0 -2px 0 var(--pine); }
  .menu a:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--shu); outline-offset: 2px; }
  .menu .menu-book a { background: var(--pine); color: #FBF9F4; }
  .menu .menu-book a:hover { background: var(--pine-soft); color: #FBF9F4; }
  @media (prefers-color-scheme: dark) {
    .menu .menu-book a, .menu .menu-book a:hover { color: #14201A; }
  }
  /* Narrow phones: the four links still fit on one line if the brand shrinks. */
  @media (max-width: 560px) {
    .topbar-inner { padding: 0.55rem 1rem; flex-direction: column; align-items: stretch; gap: 0.35rem; }
    .brand { justify-content: center; font-size: 1.05rem; }
    .menu { justify-content: space-between; }
    .menu a { padding: 0.4rem 0.55rem; font-size: 0.9rem; }
  }

  .page-wide { max-width: 64rem; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 1.5rem 6rem; }
  @media (max-width: 480px) { .page-wide, .page { padding-left: 1rem; padding-right: 1rem; } }

  /* Compact hero on the front page so the tours sit high. */
  .hero.compact { padding: 3rem 0 2rem; max-width: 46rem; }
  .hero.compact h1 { font-size: clamp(2.1rem, 6vw, 3.1rem); }
  .hero.compact p.lede { margin: 1.1rem 0 1.4rem; }

  /* Tour cards. All four on the front page, side by side where there's room. */
  .section-head {
    display: flex;
    align-items: baseline;
    justify-content: space-between;
    gap: 1rem;
    margin: 1rem 0 1.25rem;
  }
  .section-head h2 { margin: 0; }
  .tour-grid {
    display: grid;
    grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(14rem, 1fr));
    gap: 1.1rem;
  }
  .tour-card {
    display: flex;
    flex-direction: column;
    background: var(--card);
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 4px;
    overflow: hidden;
    box-shadow: 0 1px 3px var(--shadow);
    color: inherit;
    text-decoration: none;
    transition: border-color 150ms ease, box-shadow 150ms ease;
  }
  .tour-card:hover { border-color: var(--pine); box-shadow: 0 4px 14px var(--shadow); }
  .tour-card:focus-visible { outline: 2px solid var(--shu); outline-offset: 3px; }
  .tour-card img {
    display: block;
    width: 100%;
    aspect-ratio: 3 / 2;
    object-fit: cover;
    background: var(--line);
  }
  .tour-card-body { padding: 1rem 1.1rem 1.15rem; display: flex; flex-direction: column; flex: 1; }
  .tour-card .stop-label { margin-bottom: 0.3rem; font-size: 0.7rem; }
  .tour-card h3 {
    font-family: "Palatino Linotype", "Book Antiqua", Palatino, Georgia, "Yu Mincho", serif;
    font-weight: 600;
    font-size: 1.15rem;
    line-height: 1.3;
    margin: 0 0 0.45rem;
  }
  .tour-card p { margin: 0 0 0.9rem; font-size: 0.95rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
  .tour-meta {
    margin-top: auto;
    display: flex;
    flex-wrap: wrap;
    gap: 0.25rem 0.9rem;
    font-size: 0.85rem;
    color: var(--mist);
  }
  .tour-meta .price { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 700; font-size: 1rem; }
  .tour-more { margin-top: 0.7rem; color: var(--pine); font-weight: 600; font-size: 0.92rem; }

  /* Banner photo at the top of each tour page. */
  .banner {
    margin: 1.5rem 0 0;
    border-radius: 4px;
    overflow: hidden;
    border: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .banner img { display: block; width: 100%; max-height: 26rem; object-fit: cover; }
  .photo-credit { font-size: 0.78rem; color: var(--mist); margin: 0.4rem 0 0; }
  .photo-pair {
    display: grid;
    grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fit, minmax(12rem, 1fr));
    gap: 1rem;
    margin-top: 1.5rem;
  }
  .photo-pair img {
    display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover;
    border-radius: 4px; border: 1px solid var(--line);
  }

  /* Guide teaser / about portrait. */
  .guide {
    display: grid;
    grid-template-columns: 9rem 1fr;
    gap: 1.4rem;
    align-items: center;
    margin-top: 3rem;
    padding-top: 2.5rem;
    border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  }
  .guide img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 3 / 4; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 4px; border: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .guide h2 { font-size: 1.5rem; margin-bottom: 0.5rem; }
  .guide p { margin: 0 0 0.8rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
  .guide a.more { color: var(--pine); font-weight: 600; text-decoration: none; }
  .guide a.more:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
  @media (max-width: 520px) { .guide { grid-template-columns: 6.5rem 1fr; gap: 1rem; } }

  .back-link { display: inline-block; margin-top: 1.5rem; color: var(--pine); font-weight: 600; text-decoration: none; font-size: 0.95rem; }
  .back-link:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
  .page-title { padding: 2.5rem 0 0.5rem; }
  .page-title h1 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 5.5vw, 2.8rem); }
  .other-tours { margin-top: 3rem; padding-top: 2rem; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
  .other-tours .tour-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(12rem, 1fr)); }
  .hero.compact { padding: 2rem 0 0.5rem; }
  .hero.compact .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 1rem; }
  .hero.compact h1 { margin-bottom: 0.9rem; }
  .hero.compact .rating { margin-bottom: 0.5rem; }
  .guide { align-items: start; }
  .guide .lede { font-size: 1.1rem; color: var(--ink-soft); margin: 0.2rem 0 1.2rem; }
  .guide .lede strong { color: var(--ink); font-weight: 600; }
  /* The width/height attributes are there to stop layout jumping; let CSS decide the real shape. */
  .tour-card img, .banner img, .guide img, .photo-pair img { height: auto; }
  /* On phones 広島 stands top to bottom, old-style (Brad, 2026-10-07: "reads like old style japanese").
     Deliberate vertical writing, not an accidental wrap, so every phone shows it the same way. */
  @media (max-width: 560px) {
    .eyebrow { align-items: flex-start; }
    .eyebrow .kanji { writing-mode: vertical-rl; text-orientation: upright; letter-spacing: 0.25em; line-height: 1; }
    /* Right-hand side, where a vertical line of Japanese properly starts (Brad, 10-07). */
    .eyebrow > span:not(.kanji) { order: 1; }
    .eyebrow::after { order: 2; align-self: center; }
    .eyebrow .kanji { order: 3; }
  }

  /* Choose your date (book.html, dates.js) */
  .datepick { margin-top: 1.25rem; max-width: 22rem; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line);
    border-radius: 12px; padding: 1rem; box-shadow: 0 1px 3px var(--shadow); }
  .dp-head { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; margin-bottom: .5rem; }
  .dp-month { font-weight: 600; }
  .dp-prev, .dp-next { background: none; border: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--ink); border-radius: 8px;
    width: 2.25rem; height: 2.25rem; font-size: 1.1rem; cursor: pointer; }
  .dp-prev:disabled, .dp-next:disabled { opacity: .3; cursor: default; }
  .dp-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(7, 1fr); gap: 4px; text-align: center; }
  .dp-dow { font-size: .75rem; color: var(--mist); padding-bottom: 2px; }
  .dp-day { aspect-ratio: 1; display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: center; border-radius: 8px;
    font: inherit; font-size: .95rem; border: 1px solid transparent; }
  button.dp-day { background: none; color: var(--pine); border-color: var(--line); cursor: pointer; font-weight: 600; }
  button.dp-day:hover { border-color: var(--pine); }
  button.dp-day.is-picked { background: var(--pine); color: var(--paper); border-color: var(--pine); }
  .dp-day.is-closed { color: var(--mist); opacity: .45; text-decoration: line-through; }
  .dp-picked { margin: .75rem 0 0; font-size: .95rem; color: var(--ink-soft); }
